Don't Forget to Change Your Oil—Here's How (2024)

The idea of performing maintenance, even a relatively simple task such as an oil change, may seem daunting, if not downright impossible. However, changing your own oil can be more convenient and less expensive than taking your vehicle to a local express lube shop. We'll show you how to do it correctly, safely, and affordably in the following short video clips. You might even find working on your car is fun, as much as we do. In this seven-step video guide, we will walk you through a standard oil change—in this case on an Acura TSX.

• Estimated Time: 30–60 minutes
• Experience Level: Amateur

• Oil
• Oil Filter
• Oil Drain Pan
• Basic Wrench Set
• Basic Ratchet and Socket Set
• Oil Filter Wrench/Pliers
• Nitrile Gloves
• Magnetic Lights
• Jack and Jack Stands (if you aren't using a lift)
• Creeper
• Brake Cleaner
• Plastic Clip Removal Tool (for any under-engine shields or covers)

Step 1: Prep for the Oil Change

It's absolutely worth your time to fully prep for your oil change before starting, especially if it's your first time. Here are the sub-steps, if you will:

Determine your vehicle's engine displacement

• Some models have different engine sizes depending on what trim level it is. If you don't know which one your vehicle has, there are a few ways to find out:
  • Check the owner's manual
  • Check under the hood for the Vehicle Emission Control Information sticker—this typically displays the engine displacement in liters (e.g., 1.8 liters)
  • Use a VIN decoder and find the engine displacement

Determine the correct oil type

• You shouldn't just throw any old motor oil in your vehicle's engine. They can be persnickety machines, especially about their lubricants. You want the correct viscosity to make the engine run as designed. How do you find this viscosity?
  • Again, check the owner's manual
  • Sometimes the oil cap has a label recommending an oil type
  • A quick Google search can be helpful, but make sure to find multiple agreeing sources
  • Call a dealership
• Once you find the correct viscosity (e.g., 0W-20, 5W-30), decide which oil you want:
  • Conventional: Cheaper, but not as refined
  • Blend: A mix of conventional and synthetic oil—midrange price point with improved oil refinement
  • Synthetic: Most expensive, but most refined for consistent viscosity
  • Note: Some vehicles require full-synthetic oil. If the manual says to use synthetic, use synthetic.

Determine the amount of oil needed

• The amount of oil your engine requires is quite precise. Too little oil causes unnecessary friction and excess heat buildup, leading to premature failure, while too much oil can limit the functionality of certain components—at worst, hydrolocking. To find your vehicle's oil capacity:
  • Check the owner's manual
  • Call a dealership
  • Google search from reputable sources

Once you determine the correct oil for your vehicle, order it and an oil filter for your vehicle from an auto-parts store. Next, watch a quick YouTube video about changing the oil on your vehicle—there are bound to be a few. Finally, consult the above "What You'll Need" list and purchase the necessary items. Now you're ready to go.

Step 2: Jack It Up, Open It Up

First, you'll want to lift the car high enough to give yourself room to work under it. Whether you use a hoist, ramps, or jack stands, make sure you are being absolutely safe. Never work under a car that is held up only by a floor jack. We raised our subject vehicle on the lift in the Car and Driver test garage, so you could see what we were doing.

Most modern cars are fitted with a plastic undertray to both improve aerodynamics and protect vital components on the underside of the engine. In order to access the oil pan and oil filter on the TSX, the cover needed to be removed; most undertrays are held on with a mixture of bolts, screws, or plastic clips that can be unfastened with basic hand tools. Before step two, be sure to examine the area for oil leaks. If any are found, consider having your vehicle inspected by a mechanic.

Step 3: Unplug It, Drain It

Situate your oil receptacle—five-gallon bucket, oil drain pan (available at an auto-parts store), oil reservoir, or any other sizable liquid-holding container—in such a way that the oil will drain into it without getting all over the ground or otherwise making a mess. Remember, there will be a lot of oil: Most cars have at least a gallon in their crankcase, some a lot more.

Remove the drain plug by loosening it (counterclockwise) with the proper wrench and unscrewing it. Hold onto the drain plug tightly as you remove it; you don't want it to go flying when the oil starts pouring out as you pull the plug away from the oil pan. Allow the engine to drain for five minutes or until the flow of oil has slowed to a trickle.

Step 4: Off with the Old Filter

Find the oil filter. It's the softball-sized cylindrical component screwed onto the engine (though some engines have a housing that you slip a filter cartridge into). Using your hand or an oil-filter wrench (you'll likely need the latter), loosen the oil filter (turn counterclockwise) enough that the oil starts to come out of the top and drip down into your receptacle. Wait until the flow subsides and finish removing the filter.

Before installing your new filter, be sure to verify that the old oil-filter gasket—a thin rubber O-ring—wasn't left behind. This is particularly important; if the old gasket is not removed, the new filter won't seal properly, which typically ends with all of your new, fresh oil leaking onto the ground within minutes of startup, potentially starving the engine of oil and leading to catastrophe. It is good practice to wipe down any oil-covered surfaces before you replace the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 5: Drain Plug In, Filter On

Replace the drain plug and tighten it until it's snug, but not too much—overtightening can cause damage to the oil pan and drain plug. Put some effort into tightening it, but not all of your strength. There's a tightening torque that the automaker has specified for the bolt to be fastened to using a torque wrench. In any case, do not try to rip off the head of the drain plug. Most vehicles use a washer behind the drain plug that must be replaced when you reinstall the plug (check your owner's manual to see if this washer needs to be replaced).

Next, take your new oil filter and apply a light coating of oil (from a dab on the end of your finger) all around the rubber gasket on the top of the filter. This will help create a proper seal as you tighten the filter. The same rule applies when installing the filter: Don't screw too hard, but rather turn it until it's "hand tight" and then just a bit more, so it's snug.

Step 6: Fill It Back Up with Oil

Once you have replaced the oil filter and drain plug, reinstall your undertray and lower the car back to the ground. Open the hood and remove the oil cap, which should have an oil-can symbol on it. Using a funnel, fill the engine with the manufacturer's indicated volume of oil.

Step 7: Check the Oil Level, Check for Leaks

Once the oil is poured in, start the vehicle up and run it for 10 seconds to allow the oil to circulate like normal. Finally, use the dipstick to verify that your oil is at the proper level. Checking your oil is simple: Pull the dipstick from its tube, wipe away all oil with a paper towel, reinsert the dipstick, remove the dipstick, and confirm that the oil is lined up with the full marking on the tip of the dipstick. Finally, start the vehicle and let it idle and warm up; check for leaks under the vehicle and around the oil filter.

Congratulations! You've changed your oil and saved a bunch of money. Now, doesn't that feel great?

How often should I change my vehicle's oil?

Vehicle manufacturers typically set oil-change increments based on the recommended oil type. You'll see 3000–5000 miles listed for older vehicles, while some of the newer, synthetic-only vehicles are rated for oil changes up to 15,000 miles. We strongly suggest following whatever your owner's manual says.

What's the difference between regular motor oil and synthetic oil?

Regular motor oil is made with a naturally occurring compound and innately features natural impurities. To create synthetic motor oil, artificial chemicals are introduced to help eliminate those natural impurities, theoretically increasing the longevity of the oil at a microscopic level.

Is it easy to change my own oil?

This really depends on your vehicle, but an oil change is typically one of the more simple maintenance items you can do in your garage. All cars are different, and some vehicles are easier than others. We recommend a quick YouTube search for your vehicle's make/model to watch and evaluate if it's something you can tackle.

Additionally, have a backup plan in case something goes wrong—e.g., the oil filter is incorrect or you forgot to buy new oil. While your car is drained of its lifeblood, you can't exactly run to the store unless you have a friend or a second car.

How do I know it's time for an oil change?

Keep track of your mileage and simply plan for an oil change when you get around that increment. Some people say that if the oil is dark, it's time for an oil change. This is unreliable, as oil naturally turns dark as it works and can be dark after just a few hundred miles. The best, most reliable way to keep track of your next oil-change timing is to log the mileage. If you want to really get nerdy, you can send a sample of the used oil from your vehicle to Blackstone Labs, who will analyze it and give you a report telling you the condition of the oil as well as any contaminants that would indicate excessive engine wear.

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